Laptop Bag - Tutorial

I bought myself a new computer - a MacBook Pro 13" laptop.

Of course a laptop is far more useful if you can carry it around safely - hence a laptop bag is required.

But I didn't really want to spend MORE money - or be the same as everybody else - so I decided to design and make one myself.

It has three internal padded sections, a front pocket,

and a back pocket with flap.

 Want to see how?

Now, let's be clear, this is my first blog tutorial, and it is quite long.  I would love to get some feedback if you have the inclination.

Step 1. Determining the amount of material required.

First I measured my laptop.

Around the closed computer.

And across the width.

I added 15cm to the circumference and 10cm to the width then cut out four pieces of fabric and two of batting to these dimensions.

Only one of the piece is going to show, so the other three can be plain calico.

Step 2. Stitching the main body pieces.

Put the fabric in pairs, right sides together and then put a piece of batting on top of each.

The batting is against the wrong side of the feature fabric.

Line up all the edges and pin the short sides.

 Sew through the three layers along the pinned edges.  I used a 10mm seam.  Sew with the batting facing up - it reduces the amount of fluff getting into the mechanisms of the sewing machine.  You could also put in a layer of tear-away paper (we use kitchen towel at work).

A 'Walking Foot' is really useful for this project.

Turn your two pieces right sides out - the batting will now be 'sandwiched' between the fabric.

Press the seams - ensuring that the calico does not show on the front side.

Press the seams - ensuring that the calico does not show on the front side.  Then top stitch.  I did two rows, one about 6mm from the edge, and one about 2mm.  You'll want to remember the settings, you'll be using them a lot.

Note that on one edge there is only one row of topstitching - you will see why soon.

Step 3. Making and attaching the flap.

For the next step you need to have decided the width and placement of your handles, as the flap needs to fit between them.  Think about how thick the bag is going to be when you have the laptop in it as well.

 Draft your flap pattern.  The deeper part on the fold will fit between the handles, the shallower sections at the sides covers the top of the bag when in use.  Add your seam allowances, I used 10mm again.

 Pin & cut out two pieces of fabric, your first and second contrast fabrics.  This is my second contrast, it is the same pattern as the main fabric, but in a different colour way.  You should also cut out one piece of fusible interfacing, slightly smaller than the fabric layers.

 Fuse the interfacing to the 2nd contrast fabric, pin pieces right sides together, and stitch, leaving a 5 - 7cm opening along the straight side.

Trim the seam allowances, clip the curves, turn & press.  Make sure you press the opening in line with the rest of the seam.

 Remember those topstitch settings?  You are going to use them again now.

 But again, on the long, straight edge, only the closer row is sewn.  This closes the turning hole.

  Pin the flap right side up along the edge of the main fabric (also right side up) that only had one row of topstitching, with the curved edge pointing away from the main bag section (as shown).  Make sure you align centres.  Now stitch the flap to the bag along the topstitching lines.  This was why I only did one row of topstitching along each of these edges - to reduce the number of overstitched seams.

Step 4. Handles

First decide how long you want them - measured from your shoulder to the top of the bag, add the length of the bag, then multiply by four and add seam allowances.  You will need to cut/make strips of your 1st contrast fabric to this length.  I needed to cut 4 strips, and stitch them together.

Cut strips 5" wide.

You also need strips of batting the same length (minus seam allowances) and the width you want your finished handles to be (in my case 2").

Batting Strips

Iron the fabric strips in half, lengthways.

Lay the batting on the wrong side of the fabric, butting it right up to the centre crease.  Fold the first seam allowance over the batting and press as shown.

If your batting isn't long enough, just lap a second strip over the end by about 10mm.

Iron the seam allowance on the opposite side in the same distance - the edges should match when the fabric is folded over the batting - as shown.

At either end of the strip fold the seam allowance over and press, while the fabric is still unfolded.

Lap the ends, one over the other & pin.

Stitch the end together (remember those top stitching settings?) to make one large loop.  Then fold the fabric over as pressed, to enclose the batting.

Topstitch the opening closed.

 And the opposite edge to match (you know the drill).  I only did one row on the handles at this point.

Fold the main section in half lengthways to find the centre.  Mark with pins.

Fold the handle loop in half, with one fold at the overlapped join.  Mark the other fold with pins.

Lay your handle loop on right side of the main bag piece, in the desired position (a long quilter's rule makes this easy) aligning the centre marks.

Pin in position then open out the bag piece and continue on the other side.

The handles in position on 1 half of the bag.

And guess what?  That's right - topstitch the handles in place - two rows again, one over the stitching you used to close the opening.

Showing the handles stitched on, front & back.  This also acts as quilting to hold the batting in place.

Step 5. Pockets.

Next - we make the pockets.

Decide how wide & deep you want the pockets, then cut a piece the desired width (I used the quilter's standard 1/4") and 4x as long (depth) plus seam allowances, from your second contrast fabric.

Fold the piece in half lengthwise, right sides together.  Stitch the ends together.

Press the seam open and centre it along the length of the loop, as shown below.  Press, pin and stitch, leaving a gap for turning of course.

Turn through, press and do two rows of topstitching all around, closing the gap as you go.

Aline the centrelines of the pocket piece with the centrelines of the main bag.

Pin and stitch down the sides, over the outer line of topstitching, to attach the pocket piece to the bag.  This forms more quilting, and stabilises the batting further.

Step 6. Rear Pocket Flap

Using the pattern for the bag flap, determine the size of the pocket flap - this way it will mirror the shape and be in harmony with the front of the bag.

Mark and cut two pocket flap pieces.  I cut one each from my main fabric and my 2nd contrast (the same as the pocket fabric).

Cut one piece of iron-on interfacing and trim slightly just outside the seam lines.

Iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of one of the pieces of fabric, it doesn't really matter which.

Pin the pieces wrong side together and stitch along the seam lines, leaving a gap for turning (no surprises here). Trim corners, snip curves, turn and press.

And, (goodness me!) topstitch.  One row only along the straight edge, two along the curve.

Pin the flap in place at the top of the rear pocket.  I liked it with the main fabric uppermost as it accentuated the curve.  Then stitch that second line of topstitching, the one closest to the edge.

Step 7. Putting the bag together.

Next we are going to finish the piece that makes the inner, laptop pocket.

We already stitched the end seams, turned, pressed and topstitched when we made the main bag piece.  But the batting needs to be stabilised so that it doesn't end up all bunched together after the bag has been used for a while.  So, stitch a few evenly space rows along the length of the piece.  I spaced mine at 2".

Trim the batting slightly, just to reduce the bulk of the upcoming seams - but it still needs to be caught in the seam to hold it in place, so not too much.

Line the two bag pieces up, feature fabric to the outside, ensuring the centres match.

Pin along the widthways centre line and stitch (you will start to be really glad of a walking foot now - if you have one). 

The base of the bag has now been formed.  And the pocket 'tunnel' has suddenly transformed into two pockets. 

Fold the bag in half along this stitch line, feature fabric right sides together as shown.  Align the edges and pin.  

 Then stitch.  I think I used about 10mm.

Step 8. Binding the seams.

Admittedly, I did this last, when I realised I didn't like the messy unfinished look of the raw seams, but this is where it really should be done.

Cut two pieces of fabric (your choice which) about an inch longer than your seams, and 2" wide.  Fold wrong sides together and press.

Open out and press the raw edges into the middle.

Lie the binding under the seam with the raw edge along the centre fold.  Fold the two binding ends over the ends of the seam and pin.

Then pin the rest of the binding over, through all layers (easier said than done, the seam is pretty thick), use long, sharp pins. 

Stitch through all layers.  You may have to increase your stitch length for this bit.  You will also have to be careful to catch both sides of the binding (I didn't the first time and had to go over it).

Turn the bag through and press.  Goodness! It's almost finished! 

Now you can see those three padded pockets (and my initially unbound seams). 

Step 9. Closure.

The final stage is to choose your closure - anything you like except magnets (we are talking electronic equipment here remember?).

I chose hammer on press-studs, as I had one set left.  But I wouldn't recommend it, the batting was too thick for the teeth on the bag side, and I wrecked it.  I'll have to replace it with sew on ones.

Don't be fooled, the lower one isn't secure.

I didn't like the look of the press-stud as was - too insipid.

So I disguised it with a co-ordinating vintage button and....Voila! Finished laptop bag.

Step 10. Step out in style.

Suggested Variations.

A) If you don't want to bind the seams you could:- sew all around the main pieces (aside from that ubiquitous turning gap) in Step 2, trimming the batting back from the seam first (i.e. don't catch it).  Then catch the batting when you topstitch.  This will give 4 'bound' seams in the finished bag.  It could also make it bulkier though, and a little less neat.

B) Consider a gusset at the sides to make it easier to fit all the extras in - so you don't have to take your handbag as well.  Not as streamlined looking in and of itself though.  You will have to add extra length to the panels to allow for this.

C) In combination with a gusset, add extra padding to the base of the bag. Neoprene perhaps.  To be placed between the two padded panels.  Instead of one central stitching line along the base, there will be two lines, equidistant from the centre, and either side of the extra padding.  I really think I will do this next time - just that little bit more protection.

In conclusion.

As I mentioned in the beginning - this is my first tutorial.  I would love to know what you think of it.  Too long?  Too much detail?  Just enough?  Not enough (this would be hard to believe :) )?  Are the instructions sufficiently clear?

If you make a bag I would love to see a photo!

And finally, apologies for the mixed metric and imperial dimensions - it comes from being an Australian Engineer (often working with American equipment) and Quilter (for which very few tools are produced with metric measurements).

Until next time - Ravs